My Complete Guide to Visiting, Hiking, and Backpacking Yellowstone

By Cap Puckhaber, Reno, Nevada

Yellowstone National Park is one of those places that sticks with you long after you’ve left. I’m Cap Puckhaber, and I’ve spent years exploring this park as a hiker, part-time blogger, and all-around outdoor enthusiast. I’ve hiked and camped all over it, from the easy day hikes on boardwalks to multi-day backcountry routes, and I still feel like I’ve only scratched the surface. It’s a hiker’s paradise, boasting stunning landscapes, unique geothermal features, and incredible wildlife.

If you’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and want to explore it beyond the overlooks, this guide is for you. I’m breaking down everything I’ve learned that will help you do it right. We’ll cover where to fly into, the different park entrances, my favorite places to stay, and how to handle permits. We will also review the must-see spots, my go-to backpacking routes, and some hard-won advice to make your Yellowstone experience a great one.

My Take on Getting to Yellowstone

Figuring out the logistics of just getting to the park can be half the battle, as Yellowstone is massive and remote. Your starting point really shapes your entire trip, from what you see first to how much time you spend driving. I’ve learned that picking the right airport and entrance is the first crucial step in a successful plan.

Flying In: Your Best Airport Options

You’ve got a few solid choices for airports, but each has its pros and cons. The closest airport is technically Yellowstone Airport (WYS) near West Yellowstone, Montana. It’s incredibly convenient for the West Entrance but it’s small and only open seasonally, so flights can be limited and pricey. Another popular option is Jackson Hole Airport (JAC) in Wyoming. It’s about 60 miles south of the park’s South Entrance. This airport is fantastic because it drops you right at the doorstep of Grand Teton National Park, and the drive up to Yellowstone from there is breathtaking.

However, I usually recommend Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (BZN) in Montana. It’s located about 90 miles from the park’s North Entrance in Gardiner. I find that BZN often has more flight options and more competitive prices for rental cars. The 1.5 to 2-hour drive to the park is easy and scenic, setting the stage for the adventure ahead.

The Drive to the Park (and Renting a Car)

Let’s be clear about one thing: you will need a rental car. Public transportation to and within the park is extremely limited. Once you fly into Bozeman, Jackson Hole, or any of the other regional airports, your rental car is your ticket to freedom. From Jackson Hole, you’re looking at about a 1.5-hour drive just to reach the South Entrance. From Bozeman, it’s a similar 1.5 to 2-hour drive to the North Entrance. I always tell people to just build this driving time into their vacation. The drive itself is part of the experience, so take your time and enjoy the mountain views along the way.

Which Yellowstone Entrance Should You Use?

Yellowstone has five main entrances, and the one you pick can make a big difference, especially if you’re short on time. I’ve used all of them over the years, and I can tell you that each one has a completely different personality. Choosing the right one depends on where you’re coming from and what you want to see first.

The North Entrance (Gardiner, MT)

This entrance at Gardiner, Montana, is my go-to for spring or fall trips because it’s the only entrance open to wheeled vehicles year-round. Mammoth Hot Springs is immediately inside the park from here. I’ve used this entrance in early spring when the rest of the park was still buried in snow. It provides the easiest and most direct access to the park’s famous Lamar Valley, which is, without question, the best place for wildlife sightings.

The West Entrance (West Yellowstone, MT)

The West Entrance, near the town of West Yellowstone, is one of the busiest. This was the first entrance I ever used on my very first trip. It’s incredibly popular because it drops you right into the heart of geyser country. If you’re excited to see Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring, and the Lower Geyser Basin right away, this is a great place to start. The town of West Yellowstone is also packed with hotels and restaurants, making it a convenient base.

The South Entrance (Jackson Hole, WY)

If you’re planning to visit both Grand Teton and Yellowstone, this is the logical choice. The South Entrance directly connects the two parks. The drive up from Jackson Hole through Grand Teton National Park is, in my opinion, one of the most scenic stretches of highway in the entire West. I’ve seen elk, moose, and bald eagles all in one afternoon on that road before even paying the entrance fee for Yellowstone.

The East Entrance (Cody, WY)

Coming in from Cody, Wyoming, brings you through the East Entrance. This route takes you along the Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway, and it’s a classic mountain-driving experience. I’ve done that drive, and it follows the Shoshone River through a dramatic canyon. It’s a beautiful, winding road that leads you past the Shoshone National Forest and eventually to the shores of Yellowstone Lake. It feels a bit more rugged than the other entrances.

The Northeast Entrance (Cooke City, MT)

This is the quiet one. The Northeast Entrance is near the tiny, remote town of Cooke City, Montana. It’s the best access point for the Beartooth Highway, which is an adventure all on its own. It also puts you right at the edge of Lamar Valley. If you want a peaceful start to your trip and plan to focus on wildlife watching away from the big crowds, this is the way to go.

Where I Like to Stay: Lodging Inside and Near the Park

Your lodging choice dictates your whole day, especially how early you can get to the popular spots. I’ve done it all, from historic hotels inside the park to basic campgrounds and motels in the border towns. Where you sleep determines how early you can hit the trail and how much driving you’ll do each day.

Staying Inside the Park: My Top Picks

When I can get a room, I always try to stay inside the park. It’s just easier. You wake up already surrounded by nature, and you don’t waste an hour or more getting in and out of the gates each day. One of my favorite spots is the Old Faithful Inn. It’s this massive, historic log-and-stone building that feels like it was made for mountain storytelling. I’ve sat on the upper balconies with a cup of coffee and watched Old Faithful erupt through the steam. It never, ever gets old.

Another solid choice is the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. It’s quieter, more elegant, and sits right on the water. The views over the lake at sunrise are unreal. One morning, I walked down to the shoreline before anyone else was awake and saw otters playing in the water, which was totally unexpected. When I want to focus on the northern parts of the park, I go with the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. It’s near the North Entrance and makes a great base for exploring both Lamar Valley and the geyser basins.

A Critical Piece of Advice: Book Early

Here’s the catch for all in-park lodging: you must book early. I am talking months ahead, sometimes even a year in advance, especially if you’re planning a summer trip. I’ve seen folks get completely shut out of the park because they waited too long. These rooms are managed by the park’s concessioner and sell out almost instantly. Don’t wait.

Lodging Outside the Park: Good Alternatives

If you can’t get a room inside the park, don’t worry. The towns just outside the entrances are great options. I usually look in West Yellowstone or Gardiner. West Yellowstone is busier and more developed, with lots of lodging and restaurants. Gardiner is smaller and has more of a chill, rustic vibe, which I really like. I’ve also stayed in Cody, Wyoming, when coming in through the East Entrance. The drive into the park each morning was stunning and definitely part of the fun.

Planning Your Hikes: Permits and Camping

Getting your accommodations sorted is one thing, but figuring out passes and permits is the critical next step. This is especially true if you plan to do any car camping or backcountry backpacking during your visit. The park has several different systems for passes and permits, and knowing them ahead of time is essential.

Car Camping Reservations and Park Passes

First, to enter the park, you’ll need a pass. You can buy a 7-day pass just for Yellowstone for about $35 per vehicle, which covers everyone inside. If you plan to visit multiple national parks within a year, I highly recommend the America the Beautiful National Park Pass. It costs around $80 and gets you into all national parks and federal recreational lands for a full year. It almost always pays for itself.

If you’re not ready for backpacking but want to car camp, the park has several fantastic campgrounds with drive-in sites. These also require advance planning. Madison is my go-to campground. It’s pretty central, very close to geyser country, and has easy access to the river. I’ve spent evenings there listening to elk bugle in the distance. Grant Village is another one I use when I want to be near Yellowstone Lake or plan to head into Grand Teton afterward. Both of these, and most other popular campgrounds, require reservations, which you can make on Recreation.gov. Just like the hotels, these sites get booked up months in advance.

Getting a Backcountry Permit

If you’re like me and want to sleep in the backcountry, you’ll need a backcountry permit. This is a separate system from the car campgrounds. While the permits themselves are free, that doesn’t mean they’re easy to get for popular routes during the summer. I usually reserve mine online through Yellowstone’s official backcountry permit system, which opens in the spring. If you’re flexible, you can also try to get a walk-up permit at one of the ranger stations in the park, but I’ve found it’s a gamble.

I always carry a printed version of my permit and double-check the campsite numbers and any bear management area restrictions. I’ve had to reroute my plans before due to recent bear activity in an area. The rangers are strict about permits and food storage for a very good reason.

The Best Time to Visit Yellowstone (In My Opinion)

You can visit Yellowstone any time of year, but the experience changes dramatically with the seasons. I’ve been in the spring melt, the summer crowds, and the quiet of autumn, and each has its pros and cons. The right time for you really depends on what you want to do and how many people you’re willing to share the park with.

My Favorite Months: May and September

I’ll tell anyone who asks that May and September are my favorite months to be in the park. In May, everything is just waking up. You’ll see bison calves and other baby animals moving through the valleys, wildflowers are starting to bloom, and the trails are still muddy but generally manageable. The waterfalls are also at their peak from the snowmelt. September is also magical. It brings cooler nights, golden aspen leaves, and significantly fewer people. It’s also the rutting season for elk, which is something you have to hear to believe. Their calls echo across the valleys at dawn and dusk.

The Peak Season: July and August

July and August are, without a doubt, beautiful. The weather is warm, and all park roads and trails are open. But you have to be prepared for the crowds. It’s packed. Parking lots at popular spots like Grand Prismatic and Old Faithful fill up by 9 a.m. The popular trails and boardwalks can feel more like you’re at an amusement park than in the wilderness. This is also peak wildfire season some years, which can mean hazy skies and, occasionally, trail or road closures. It’s still a great time to go, but you must adjust your expectations and your schedule.

What About Winter in Yellowstone?

Winter in Yellowstone is something else entirely. It’s a completely different world. Most of the park roads are closed to cars. To get to interior spots like Old Faithful, you have to take a guided snowcoach or snowmobile tour. I’ve gone snowshoeing near Mammoth Hot Springs and watched huge herds of bison huddle together in the steaming thermal basins while snow fell all around. The solitude is incredible. If you truly want to escape the crowds and don’t mind the extreme cold, it’s an unbelievable experience.

The “Don’t-Miss” Sights for Your First Trip

Even if you’re just dipping your toes into the park for a couple of days, there are a few places I always bring first-time visitors. These spots are popular and often crowded, but they are classics for a very good reason. Seeing them helps you understand the sheer scale and unique nature of this incredible place.

Old Faithful and Observation Point

You can’t go to Yellowstone and skip Old Faithful. It’s the most famous geyser in the park, and it erupts approximately every 90 minutes. But here’s my advice: don’t just stand in the massive crowd on the main boardwalk. I like to hike up to Observation Point. It’s a short but steep trail that gives you a top-down view of the geyser and the entire Upper Geyser Basin. You get to watch the eruption away from everyone, and the perspective is much better.

Grand Prismatic Spring (The Right Way)

The Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the United States, and its vibrant colors are a photographer’s dream. But here’s the trick: don’t just walk the boardwalk that’s right next to it. At ground level, it’s often so steamy you can’t even see the colors. The real view, the one you see in all the postcards, is from above. You need to drive to the Fairy Falls Trailhead and take the short hike up to the Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook. It’s absolutely worth the extra effort.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

This is one of the most stunning sights in the park. It’s a massive, 20-mile-long canyon carved by the Yellowstone River, with dramatic yellow and pink walls. There are two huge waterfalls, the Upper and Lower Falls, that are spectacular. You can drive along both the North and South Rims to various viewpoints. The view of the Lower Falls from Artist Point on the South Rim is probably one of the most photographed spots in Yellowstone.

Yellowstone Lake

It’s hard to miss Yellowstone Lake, as it’s the largest high-altitude lake in North America. It’s a great place to slow down. I’ve spent afternoons just wandering the edge of the water near West Thumb Geyser Basin, watching the clouds reflect on the glassy surface. I’ve even fished from the shore with a special park permit. It’s a perfect spot for a scenic picnic and a good place to spot waterfowl and, as I learned, even otters.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Located near the North Entrance, Mammoth Hot Springs is completely different from the geyser basins. These are unique limestone terraces formed by mineral-rich hot water. It looks like a cave turned inside out. You can walk on boardwalks that weave through the steaming, chalk-white and orange formations. It’s also a great area to see elk, as they frequently graze on the lawns around the hotel and visitor center.

Where to Find Wildlife (Especially in Lamar Valley)

For many people, including me, Yellowstone is all about the wildlife. You can see animals almost anywhere, but some spots are better than others. It’s one of the few places left in the lower 48 where you can see such a complete and wild ecosystem in action, which is why seeing a wolf or grizzly here feels so different.

The “Serengeti of North America”

If you want to see wildlife, you must get up early and head to Lamar Valley. It’s often called the Serengeti of North America, and for good reason. This wide, expansive valley in the park’s northeast corner is the best place to spot bison, elk, coyotes, pronghorn, and, if you’re lucky, wolves and bears. I’ve seen entire herds of bison block the road here. I’ve also watched a grizzly bear move across a distant ridgeline from a half-mile away. Bring binoculars or a spotting scope. A long camera lens is also a must if you have one.

A Quick Note on Bear Safety

This brings me to an important topic: bear safety. Yellowstone is serious grizzly and black bear country. Whether you’re on a boardwalk or deep in the backcountry, you need to be bear-aware. I always carry bear spray on my hip and know how to use it. Never hike alone if you can help it, and make noise as you walk by talking or clapping. When backpacking, I am meticulous about food storage, either using a bear-resistant canister or a proper food hang system. The rangers take this seriously, and so should you. For more, check out the official bear safety guidelines from the National Park Service.

My Favorite Backcountry Hikes (When You’re Ready)

When I really want to get off the grid and away from the crowds, I head for the backcountry. Yellowstone has over 900 miles of trails, and most of them are empty. This is where you find the real solitude and get to experience the park on a much deeper level, away from the traffic and boardwalks.

Shoshone Lake: The Backcountry Escape

Shoshone Lake is one of my favorite backcountry destinations because you can’t drive to it. This keeps the crowds away. I usually hike in from the Lone Star Geyser Trailhead. It’s a long but relatively flat and steady hike through the woods, and then all of a sudden, you emerge at this massive, glassy lake with almost nobody around. There are a handful of remote campsites along the shore that feel like paradise. It’s a great introduction to Yellowstone backpacking.

Heart Lake and Mount Sheridan

Heart Lake is another fantastic moderate backpacking trip. It’s about a 7.5-mile hike in, and once you get there, the lake sits right below the imposing Mount Sheridan. If you’re feeling ambitious and have an extra day, you can summit the peak for an unbelievable 360-degree panoramic view of the park. The trail to the lake passes by several thermal features and quiet meadows, and it feels like a mini Yellowstone all on its own.

Backpacking in Lamar Valley

I mentioned Lamar Valley for wildlife, but it’s also a prime backpacking area. The trails out here are remote, wild, and not for the faint of heart. This is one of the few places where I’ve gone full days without seeing another person. You will need to be extremely self-sufficient and absolutely on top of your bear safety protocols. But the reward is worth it. The feeling of solitude while watching bison herds move across the valley is something I’ll never forget.

A Few Hard-Won Lessons from the Trail

I’ve made my share of mistakes in Yellowstone, and I’ve seen other hikers make them too. Here are a few pieces of advice based on what I’ve learned, sometimes the hard way, that can save you a lot of frustration. This is a wild place that demands respect, and a little planning goes a long way.

The Mistake of Not Planning for Crowds

Here’s the “don’t” example of the day: Do not show up at Old Faithful or Grand Prismatic at noon in July and expect to find a parking spot. You’ll just circle in frustration for an hour. Yellowstone rewards early risers. The best light for photos, the best wildlife activity, and the quietest trails all happen before 8 a.m., before most people have even finished their first cup of coffee. My rule is to be at my first “must-see” spot of the day before sunrise.

Packing Layers and Offline Maps

I always pack layers, even in the middle of July. The weather in the mountains is no joke. I’ve seen snow flurries in June and had to scrape frost off my tent in August. A warm hat, gloves, and a rain jacket are non-negotiable for me on any hike. Also, your cell phone will not work in 99% of the park. Do not rely on it for navigation. I always download offline maps on my phone using an app like AllTrails and, more importantly, I carry a physical paper map from the NPS as a backup.

Leave No Trace: Why It Matters Here

This is my final plea. I try to leave no trace wherever I go, but especially in a place as fragile as Yellowstone. Stay on the boardwalks in thermal areas; a single footstep off-trail can damage formations that took thousands of years to build. Pack out every single crumb and every scrap of paper. I’ve seen too much trash left at popular overlooks. Yellowstone is too special to treat carelessly. We all have a responsibility to protect it for the next generation.

Final Thoughts on a Place That Sticks With You

Yellowstone isn’t just a place to visit and check off a list. It’s a place to slow down, to explore, and to feel small in the best possible way. Whether you’re hiking a crowded boardwalk, watching a geyser erupt, or sleeping miles deep in the backcountry, the park has something to offer everyone. My best advice is to take your time and go in prepared for anything. This is a wild place, and it deserves respect, so let the experience soak in. I know I’ll be back out on those trails soon.

---

Common Questions About Visiting Yellowstone

What’s the best entrance for a first-time visitor?

I generally recommend the West Entrance for first-timers. It’s the most convenient for accessing the highest concentration of famous sights, including Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring, and the Upper, Midway, and Lower Geyser Basins. The town of West Yellowstone also has the most services, which makes it an easy and comfortable base of operations.

How many days do you really need in Yellowstone?

I would plan for a minimum of three full days inside the park. This gives you one day for the Old Faithful and geyser basin area, one day for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and Yellowstone Lake, and one day for Mammoth Hot Springs and wildlife watching in Lamar Valley. If you want to hike, backpack, or move at a more relaxed pace, five to seven days is much better.

Is it safe to drive in Yellowstone?

Yes, it is generally very safe, but you need to be patient. The park roads are well-maintained, but speed limits are low, typically 45 mph or less. The biggest hazard is other drivers stopping suddenly and unexpectedly in the middle of the road for wildlife. These “bison jams” or “bear jams” are common. Always be alert and prepared to stop.

Can I see wildlife from my car?

Absolutely. You will almost certainly see bison and elk from your car, especially in the Lamar and Hayden Valleys. I’ve seen bears, coyotes, and pronghorn right from the road. Always pull over completely into a designated pullout to watch animals, and never, ever approach or feed any wildlife.

What’s the one thing I absolutely cannot forget to pack?

Besides layers of clothing, the one thing I insist everyone brings is a good pair of binoculars. A lot of the most exciting wildlife, like wolves or bears, will be far away. Having binoculars turns a distant brown speck into a clear view of a grizzly bear. It completely changes your wildlife-watching experience.

---

I hope this guide gives you a solid foundation to plan your own Yellowstone adventure. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind park that every outdoor enthusiast should experience. If you’re looking for more of my hiking stories or finance tips, you can see more of my posts right here.

About the author

Cap Puckhaber is a marketing strategist, finance writer, and outdoor enthusiast. He writes across CapPuckhaber.com, TheHikingAdventures.com, SimpleFinanceBlog.com, and BlackDiamondMarketingSolutions.com. Follow him for honest, real-world advice backed by 20+ years of experience.